Dee Box Prototype

So the Dee Box project began a little while ago. Sat down with a really great wood designer (Dee) who inspired me with his amazing home (made of wood) which of course went on to us talking about synthesizer cases. I told him what I had in mind and we sat down and drew a few ideas.

This box is just a starting point for me and Dee working on projects together and I want to show you what went down and how I powered the box with help from 4mspedals.com DIY boards. Lets take a look at what happened…

DeeBox Front

Here is the first public shot of the Dee Box. I wanted something completely original with this design. Planked out lid and back, with a bug eaten handle (Dee’s amazing work). This case is made for laying down at a table when you are performing. The cables hang on the handle while you perform.

DeeBox Inside Pre Fill

This is a shot of the inside of the box prior to putting the voltage regulators inside. If you look at my past BLOGs you will see that I have a separate box for my power supply so no supply is needed in the back of the case. Simple Vector TS204s are used to mount the modules.

4ms Regulator Boards

Above are the 4ms regulator boards. These basically take 15 volts and convert it down to 12 volts. Each 104hp has 2 boards giving about 2.2 Amps through of power if needed. The supply is running close to 7A @ 15 volts. Should be enough power for about 6 rows in my opinion.

4MS Finished Regulator Board

The finished regulator board before I cut the leads off above.

Panel Mounting Regulator Board

Panel Mounting Regulator 2

This is where the Power Din Module is connected to the regulator boards. Basically you have to solder the wire +15V, -15V, Ground and 5V from the regulator board to the DIN input module. This takes some patience.

DeeBox Inside w Power

DeeBox Indside w Power 2

Then the DIN Panels are installed along with the Regulator boards inside of each row. This was done with a few small 1/4” wood screws. As you can see the wiring is done with quick release connectors so anything can be disconnected and moved or worked on in case of any changes.

DeeBox w Modular

Here is the final case filled with half LZX and half of audio modules. This is a perfect example of a DIY case with the 4ms Regulator Boards. A big thanks to Dee Church, Dan Green and all of my friends who helped me connect with all of these great people.


SH-101 Fixed

6.7A Power Supply Build

I documented my power supply build so everyone can see how it happened. You will see in the first step there is a plastic case with two supplies. Each one is 6.7A and they are going to be wired together to create a +15V/-15V power supply. The mounting is done with 1-1/4” 4/40 screws, washers and lock washers. There are also two 1/4” 4/40 plastic spacers so the power supply bottoms and plastic case do not touch in case of supply heat against the plastic case.

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After that I trace out the MIDI/DIN jacks on the side of the plastic box before cutting each one out with an Exacto Knife. They are super sharp and can cut holes out really close. Be careful though, one wrong move….ouch!!!

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Once the MIDI/DIN holes are cut I moved onto the IEC jack with fuse holder. That cut was also done with my Exacto Knife to get it as close to the size as possible. This also helps with the midi jacks because you can have enough plastic to screw them in with 2.5mm screws and square nuts. The IEC also has tabs so if the hole is the correct size it locks into the plastic and stays put when plugging and unplugging.

Next is cutting all of the wire to size and putting Female Terminal Connects on all of the wire going to the IEC jack and stripping the wire to be on the supplies and soldered to the MIDI jacks. This step is the most important because the ground wire in my box is done with 12G wire and all of the power if done with 16G. From doing car audio we always used thicker wire with the ground. The shorter the run of cable the better so there isn’t a bunch of wire in a corner of the box. It could also cause EMI noise in your audio lines.

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Once the wiring is done and the MIDI jacks are wired and soldered I go get a multimeter and test all of the jacks to make sure the power is giving +15V where needed and -15V where needed. There is a regulator board inside each of my cases that regulate the boards to +12 /-12. Running the system this way has been documented on the ELBY Designs site. It seems to be solid. If you do not know about voltage regulators you can always buy +12/-12 supplies and just go straight 12volts.

You can see my power MIDI/DIN jacks are finished. Then i GOO-Gone the marker off. Please note that people in your studio SHOULD know there is power running on MIDI/DIN jacks. If one of these gets plugged into any gear you could have a total gear meltdown. My studio speed has become much slower now that there is power running along MIDI lines. Be CAREFUL if you choose to run things this way. MIDI jacks have plenty of pins and usually are handy for running over 10’ lengths for connecting gear/power/audio in certain situations.

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My final wiring is below. As you can tell I like clean wiring and simple design. I found the plastic case in the trash and the supplies were 30$ each online (Jameco.com). Wiring is about 5$ with a 3$ IEC plug and 1$ fuse. Pretty simple project that took me about 1 hour.

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Case is powered and making amazing sounds!